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One was delighted to discover that the traditional Indian blend podi – a coarse mix of intensely spicy, roughly ground spices, which you combine with a little oil and use as a sauce for dosa or idli – is also known as “gunpowder” spice mix. That’s not a misnomer if you were using my grandmother’s homemade dried chilies, but it would be charitable to say that I’m far less adventurous with chilli, so here I suggest red pepper flakes instead. It’s an remarkably tasty marinade for these paneer and potato skewers.

Gunpowder Paneer and Potato Skewers with Mint-Lime Dressing

You will need six to eight metal or wooden skewers (if wooden, soak them in water for 10 minutes first).

Prep 10 min
Cook half an hour
Serves a couple

400g waxy potatoes, chopped into 1.5-inch chunks
Two hundred twenty-five grams paneer, cut into two-centimeter cubes
One tsp coriander seeds
½ teaspoon fennel seeds
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
1 tsp black peppercorns
One tsp chilli flakes
1½ tsp flaky sea salt, with more for serving
Two garlic pieces, peeled and grated
1-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and grated
40ml mild oil
One red onion, peeled and cut into eight wedges, then halved crossways

For the dressing
Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lime
Ten grams fresh mint leaves, minced
Half a teaspoon flaky sea salt
3.5 ounces natural yoghurt

Simmer the potatoes for 9 minutes, then remove the water and let them dry from steam for a minute. In the interim, put the paneer cubes in a container with heated water for a short while, then strain and blot dry.

Tip the coriander, fennel and cumin seeds into a pestle and mortar or blender, add the seasonings, then mash or process to a coarse mixture.

Tip into a medium-large bowl with the shredded aromatics, add the oil, then lightly combine with the ingredients to coat. Arrange the paneer, potatoes and onions on to the prepared skewers, then move to a sheet pan and keep ready – if you like, you can at this stage cover and refrigerate the skewers.

Stir all the sauce elements in a medium bowl. Heat the grill to its top temperature, then cook the skewers for a short time on each side, until the paneer is browned and the potatoes are starting to char. (This may take a different amount of time depending on the intensity of your oven, so monitor closely, especially when cooking the first side.)

Present the skewers warm, scattered with a little more salt and the sauce on the side for serving.